A journey through the Leeward Islands

Sailing through the Leeward Islands opens the door to an archipelago of high islands, lush nature and lagoons shaded in green and blue, where Polynesian culture remains vibrant.

We also love enjoying a few hours of exhilarating sailing across the ocean from one island to the next, with the thrill of a beautiful encounter near the pass—dolphins or even whales. Surprise is part of the adventure.

We first point the bow towards Huahine, then let the trade winds carry us.

HUAHINE

Today, as we arrive at the little port of Fare, we have the joy of playing with dolphins moving through the bay.

A quick stop at the market, so typical of the waterfront, and we head south towards Avea Bay. Discovering each lush green bay and the superb white-sand beaches that punctuate this passage is a real pleasure.

Halfway there, we make sure not to miss the walk above the beach at former Hana Iti. What a breathtaking viewpoint!

What a choice of activities Avea Bay offers! We love strolling along the long beach and cannot resist a little bodyboarding session. To end this wonderful day, we watch Tahitian dances at sunset.

After a day of relaxation, hiring a car lets us discover splendid views over the lagoon and explore the lush, carefully tended interior of this island. A must!

Kayaking, tow-in surfing and snorkelling reconnect us with the clear water before we return to Fare in the golden hour.

We raise the anchor early to reach Raiatea on a broad reach and enjoy a swim in the clear water before heading into Faaroa Bay.

RAIATEA

We always have fun travelling up the Faaroa River, whether kayaking upstream, jumping into the river or answering the riddles of our welcoming farmer friend who guides us through the botanical garden.

As we leave the green of the bay, still in a playful mood, we decide to play pétanque on Motu Iriru. Drift-snorkelling in the pass will wait until tomorrow.

Motu Nao Nao and its anchorage tucked into a small cove make us want to admire the schools of colourful fish sheltering among the coral heads nearby.

During our sailing tour of the island, we admire the lush green peaks from the magnificent lagoon. And when rain arrives, we enjoy a splendid rainbow.

Today, the sound of waves breaking over the reef lulls us at this anchorage near a surf spot. Surfing or bodyboarding is on the programme for the wave-riding experts.

Sunset aperitifs are a daily joy. What if the green flash appeared?

The lagoon draws us towards its sister island, the vanilla island. On the way, we take advantage of the acceleration of the wind between Raiatea and Taha’a for a kiteboarding session.

TAHA’A

Sailing through the lagoon lets us admire chains of motu in every shade of blue and see Bora Bora in the distance. Superb.

In the morning, we let the current carry us through the coral garden, admiring the many fish, anemones and corals.

After visiting a family pearl farm, the black pearl of Polynesia holds no more secrets for us. What a delicate operation! We must not distract the pearl grafters.

We sail to Motu Céran. The sandy anchorage lets the kiters enjoy a fine trade wind, tacking along the reef while others walk around the motu. Magical! We all come together at sunset for a pétanque aperitif.

The next day, a 4x4 ethnobotanical tour of Taha’a gives us beautiful views of this preserved little island and immerses us in Polynesian culture, including the culture of vanilla.

A visit to the rum distillery completes the picture. We let ourselves go—the boat is anchored right beside it.

The evening is only just beginning: it continues to the rhythm of Polynesian dances, whose plant-fibre costumes, drums and choreography enchant us.

One day's sailing separates us from legendary Bora Bora.

Following its reef before entering the pass already offers a beautiful glimpse of this magnificent lagoon.

BORA BORA

The first motu that appear give us the chance to take our first plunge into the famous lagoon's turquoise waters. Rays and sharks join the celebration—it is a festival.

The next morning, we use the beautiful light to head towards the south of the island. The passage is filled with breathtaking views. Could it be Bora Bora's magic?

We follow this with a snorkel in a real aquarium, then continue the day in Matira Bay to enjoy its magnificent beach. We end the day with a cocktail in sunset colours.

After blacktip sharks, we meet grey and lemon sharks during a scuba dive outside the reef. Visibility is spectacular—at least 30 metres.
Does Bora Bora deserve its title as the Pearl of the Pacific?
It is difficult to answer, but one thing is certain: the next stop may well make us hesitate…

We had been watching the swell and wind for several days. During the night, we set off for Maupiti. We furl the genoa at the end of the night to arrive at first light!

MAUPITI

Although its pass must be earned—it is one of the most dangerous in Polynesia—we understand why: protecting its authenticity is the guiding principle of the inhabitants of this little island.

We love enjoying village life by walking or cycling around the island. Plenty of smiles and laughter lie ahead!

Climbing the mountain is an extraordinary experience, and the breathtaking view rewards every effort.

Back from the hike, a meal at the snack bar and an improvised Tahitian bringue give us fresh energy. As the wind picks up, we bring out the kite and wing foil. A must on this smooth lagoon.

Relaxing on the sandbank or on the pretty beaches lining the motu delights us. We get the rackets out to stretch our legs a little; in the end, everyone gets caught up in the game.

The next day, swimming with manta rays leaves us with stars in our eyes and unforgettable memories.

Then the pleasure of gleaning seafood on foot draws us for hours across the reef flats. Between the magic of the water's colours, fish, giant clams and other corals, time loses its hold. Tonight's menu is obvious. Luckily, the cook has limited his captain to ti-punches… otherwise we would have run out of limes!

Have we been away for a few days? A few weeks?

In any case, here is the forecast wind rotation, signalling that it is time to return towards the Windward Islands.